Lisbon rewards walkers and punishes everyone else. Hills, cobblestones, and seven million stairs in seven different directions. Plan it by neighbourhood and you get a city you can actually feel.
Day 1, Alfama, the old soul
Start where Lisbon started. Alfama is the medieval neighbourhood that survived the 1755 earthquake, twisting alleys, terracotta roofs, fado music drifting out of doorways at night.
Take Tram 28 up the hill, get off near Largo das Portas do Sol for the postcard view, then walk down through the alleys. For lunch, Taberna Sal Grosso if you can get in, Ramiro for seafood if you’re willing to queue.
Day 2, Chiado and Bairro Alto, where the city lives
Start at Praca do Comercio, walk up Rua Augusta, take the Santa Justa lift if the line is short. Spend the afternoon wandering Chiado and Bairro Alto. A Brasileira for the historic photo op, then Fabrica Coffee Roasters for a coffee you’d actually want to drink.
At night, Bairro Alto turns into one big street party. Don’t book dinner before 9pm or you’ll feel out of step with the city.
Lisbon’s cobblestones, calcada portuguesa, are made of small polished tiles that are slippery when wet and ankle snapping when worn. Pack something with more grip than you’d think.
Day 3, Belem, the river side
Day 3 belongs to Belem, the riverside neighbourhood 6km west of the centre. The big four: Jeronimos Monastery, Belem Tower, the Padrao dos Descobrimentos, and the original Pasteis de Belem bakery.
Where to stay, the neighbourhoods, ranked
Principe Real: elegant, quiet, walking distance to Bairro Alto without sleeping in the noise. My pick for first timers.
Chiado: central, lively, the trade-off is street noise at night and tourist density during the day.
Alfama: atmospheric and beautiful, but the cobblestones mean dragging a suitcase is a workout.
Hotels I particularly trust through my Fora Travel access: The Lumiares, Memmo Alfama, and Bairro Alto Hotel.
What to pack
Walking shoes with grip. A lightweight rain layer. A swimsuit, even if you’re not planning to swim. And an eSIM, Lisbon’s metro and tram apps need data to work properly.